As you walk through the door to The World Famous Open Kitchen, the soothing sounds of Frank Sinatra mingled with the wonderful smell of garlic and fresh tomato sauce emanating from the kitchen instantly transport you to another time. A time when restaurants treated you like family. They cared about you as their customer and wanted you to bring your friends and family to take part in the experience. Not necessarily to spend your money, but to enjoy each other’s company just as you would a dinner guest in your own home.
Christina Kokenes Skiouris has been the manager here for 8 years but started folding pizza boxes when her father owned the restaurant more than 25 years ago. Asked what makes this place so special, Christina was quick to say, “We’ve been a part of Charlotte history. We have good staff, the food’s good, we want to see you. We want to hear your story.”
Started by Christina’s father Steve Kokenes and his brother Speros, The World Famous Open Kitchen (so named because the kitchen used to be visible to patrons) has been in the same spot in the Wesley Heights neighborhood of Charlotte since 1956. Although the restaurant opened in the mid-50’s, the first Kokenes came to the Queen City much earlier than that.
The Kokenes family moved to Charlotte in 1907 when Christina’s grandfather Constantine “Gus” Kokenes arrived and started a soda fountain/grocery store. When he was 22, Steve Kokenes met Louise Malatras at a dance sponsored by the American Hellenic Educational Progressive Association or AHEPA, a fraternal organization for American citizens of Greek heritage.
They married shortly thereafter in Washington, DC and decided to settle in Charlotte to partner with Speros in launching a restaurant. The World Famous Open Kitchen was born.
Aside from a remodel in the 1960s and the added moniker of “World Famous” to the original name, not much has changed. The unassuming interior features red plaid tablecloths, standard chair and booth seating and an intimacy that feels as though you’ve entered a time warp specifically designed for joy and comfort.
From the posters on the ceiling to the pennants on the wall, the decor feels non pretentious without being kitsch. It’s like a warm hug from your Italian grandmother, regardless of whether you have any Italian heritage to speak of.
This is an atmosphere of fun and family, they truly want you to sit back, relax and enjoy yourself. “We’re like the TV show Cheers, where everyone knows your name. Restaurants require a certain personality and to provide good memories”, said Christina. She went on to say, “This restaurant is how you remember restaurants to be.”
During our discussion, Christina mentioned how customers travel far and wide to visit her restaurant. As if on queue, the couple behind our booth piped in.
Paul and Erin Caskey (that’s Paul on the left) have been frequenting the World Famous Open Kitchen for years. They drive 1.5 hours from Lancaster County, South Carolina on a regular basis. As Paul put it, “There’s nowhere else to get this food between here and there, that I know of, anywhere.” With all the options available today to eat Italian food, this couple drives close to 100 miles for the taste of home they experience each time they visit. Asked how she’s been able to keep her customers coming back for more, Christina responded, “We have regulars where we know their children and grandchildren. People have been coming here for 30-40 years. We want to keep it affordable for families and people to visit.”
The menu features soups, appetizers and salads to start while also serving sandwiches and of course, pizza. For those with a heartier appetite, the “Chef Suggests” portion of the menu offers plenty of options. Passed down from recipes created by Steve and Speros, the menu has gone mostly unchanged since the restaurant opened.
Their signature pizza is the Mama “K” Supreme, featuring pepperoni, ground beef, sausage, mushroom, salami, peppers and onions for the very reasonable price of $23. Specialties include your standard offerings (veal and chicken parmigiana, lasagna and baked ziti) as well as unique dishes such as; Chicken Livers Greque or Braciole, a beefsteak stuffed with sausage, prosciutto and genoa salami. They even offer an option to customize your pasta and choose your sauce.
It hasn’t always been rosy of course. Although Wesley Heights is now considered an up and coming neighborhood in Charlotte, that’s only been true in the last 10-15 years. Prior to that, drugs and crime were a daily occurrence. In fact, tragically, Speros Kokenes was murdered outside the restaurant in 1967 during a failed robbery attempt.
It was only when Bank of America stadium was built that the fortunes of the neighborhood began to change. The investment by the Carolina Panthers helped revitalize the area and began to reverse the years of blight that had permeated the neighborhood up to that point. Asked how they survived during these tough times, Christina simply said, “It’s a testament to the good food that we lasted through those tough years.”
Approached almost daily about selling, Christina (along with her son Stephanos, also a manager) has never given any real consideration to the prospect. “I grew up here, this is what I do. Maybe one day, but no one has even considered closing the restaurant.”
Asked if there’s anything she would’ve done differently, Christina was quick and to the point. “No” was her answer as she smiled and calmly turned her head. She was no doubt surveying a lifetime of memories made and a bright future ahead.
Next time you’re in Charlotte, head over to the Wesley Heights neighborhood near Bank of America stadium. You’ll find a family owned restaurant that has endured through the generations to reveal an old world gem proudly prospering among Charlotte’s new world growth.
Where To Go:
The World Famous Open Kitchen
1318 West Morehead Street
Charlotte, NC 28208
worldfamousopenkitchen.com
